PedalTrout

So, a little progress report.

First off, a little note about giving back. Last Sunday 14 or 15 of us attended a commissaires course hosted by BNS pro-bono.  That was a great time. It was surprising, for me at least, and disturbing that we have so little people to help run events in Nova Scotia. So, with some old friends, and a few new ones, we took the plunge, read the material, watched the slideshow and had a great and informative time all around. I didn't know how much of a crucial role commissaires and other support people played in hosting, organizing and running a race. I am stoked to get ready for the coming season. It also seemed like we had enough DH'ers to run the XC events, and enough XC'ers to run the  DH events. That would be cool. We shall see.

Secondly, a blurb on giving to one's self. It's good to indulge in a little treat sometimes. I figured I'd build new wheels on the cheap, but with decent stuff.And the timing was right, seeing as how my rims are VERY concave from the braking over the last 19 years.  So, ordered a set of DT Swiss XR425 rims. Welded, eyeletted, machined braking surface, 32 hole, good looks. Narrow and light. At least compared to my old hoops. I laced those to a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub and a Deore DX front hub. Kept it all together with DT Swiss Revolution spokes. They get THIN. 1700 gram wheel set, which may not be uber-light in some people's books, but for a dual duty wheelset on the cheap, I'm pretty tickled with them. And I dropped more than a pound off the old set. They built up fairly well, other than the spokes being a bit on the long side. The next time I use that same spoke calculator, I'm taking 2mm off the suggested length. But, other than that, they wound up nice and tight, centered, round and true. It feels a fair bit livelier and spins up and down faster as well. The fact that I think they look the part as well is a bonus. Black rim brake wheels were always a fav of mine back in the day. Total investment in hoops, spokes, rim tape, presta tubes, (gack!), is 168 bucks and change. Not too bad, I guess. And I have an 8/9/10 speed freehub now, so I have more possibilities in the future. Doubt that will happen, though. I like my 7 speed setup. Speaking of which, I am running, (flawlessly), a 9 speed Deore Shadow Series rear derailleur with my 7 speed shifter and cassette. It's pretty sweet compared to the old short cage A20 that was on it, in it's heavy/flimsy glory. No more chainslap, super positive shifts and more clearance. I'll take that any day.

And as far as actual riding goes, I have been doing a fair bit as of late. On the nice days, I take the Concorde to work, and leave my backyard and hit the trails for about half the distance to work. I usually ride the guts outta 'er, so I get a decent workout in twice a day that way, and keep the skills sharp. That includes paved path, single track, double track, crusher dust trails and the road. So, some technical riding, and some high speed sections. So itchy to get that number plate and put it to use. Speaking of that, I better apply for my license soon...

Until next time,
Aaron "In the Yellow Vest with the Vintage Ride" Perrott

So, after a little move from the city to Lower Sackville, the wife, myself, the cat and the Concorde are all pretty much settled in our nuggly little home. On a green belt. With paths going to a forested area. Yes. A kilometer or so away. Stay tuned for trail development updates.

Anywho, the old bike has been getting a few upgrades in the mayhem even. A discarded Deore Shadow series rear derailleur has been pilfered from the poor bin, albeit with a missing cable anchor bolt that I rigged up from my parts bin. It's a 9 speed, and the bike is a 7 speed beast. And it works awesome. Good old Shimano. Lighter weight, more robust, better shifting, no more chain slap. Just isn't exactly "vintage" looking. Ah weel. I can always strip the anno with oven cleaner and polish it, right? Maybe not. So, no more banging the rear derailleur on/off of stuff. Noice.

"Aaron, what about hoops?", you might ask. Or you might not. I don't know if you are actually interested or not, but it makes for an awkward segway. I have ordered a set of DT Swiss XR425 rims, eyeletted, welded and with machined brake tracks. And they even look half decent in the pictures. Like it matters. So, stringing those up to my XTR rear/Deore DX front hubs with DT Swiss Revolution double-butted spokes in silver. Should make for a relatively zippy wheelset. And no worries about the sidewalls blasting off like my deeply worn Araya CV-7's it now sports. 

And even more exciting is the addition of a FREE Dura-Ace cassette lockring on the rear! Gotta shave those grams!

All the cables and housing on the bike are new, the new BB is working a treat and I even managed to score a sweet old Suntour XC Pro crankset in 175mm. I am currently rocking a Sugino VP Triple in 165mm, so this could be nice. Just need to make sure the chainring bolts will all come out. And pedals. I need to get some pedals.

So, with the sale of my venerable old Devinci, I've funded a wheelset and pedals with scrilla left over for various other floatsum and jetsum, sundries and other crap I'm sure it will need at some point.

Think I'll repack the headset the same time I do the "new" hubs. MMMmmmm... Ceramic Grease! Om-nom-nom-nom. 

Until next time,
Aaron "Which Box Did I Put That Part In?" Perrott 

So, the bike has been getting a shakedown as of late. I have a bottom bracket on order for it to replace my loose ball pack-it-youself-weekly BB with a regular cartridge set up. The Devinci looks pretty much sold at this point. That frees up some funds, but it also means the Concorde will need a little bit more beef for daily trail riding. Namely things I started to wreck at Whopper the other night. As of now, it has a free pair of plastic platform pedals on it, but I'm looking at getting some lightweight alloy flats for it. And I have marfed up my big ring twice in one day. So, the hunt for a big ring guard began. And with much gratitude and many thanks to Sportwheels in Lower Sackville, I have an awesome old-school peroid correct one, in silver, complete with the sawtooth design I crave so much.  If you ever need something weird/vintage/old/odd ball, they just might have it. And I even scored a nice free part tonight. Someone was throwing out a *mint* vintage XTR rear hub with 7 speed freehub, just because they completely destroyed the rim. Snipped all the DT spokes, wiped it clean, and carried it home. Now, I was going to buy a set of race wheels or something, but I might just lace up a nice hoop to this for the rear. Actually, now that I think about it, I have an XT or XTR front hub that was on the Christmas tree packed away some place... So, I might string up a new set of wheels sometime soon. I hope they still look old school!

I'm going for that abundance-of-underwhelming-technology look .

So, "dumpster diving" at the shop pays of yet again! 

Until next time,
Aaron "Are you gonna ride that?" Perrott 

Well, the Norco Bushpilot that's dragged my sorry butt around for the past couple of years is finally being retired. At least from my service. It can now go on to fill someone elses needs. Which is just fine by me. I'm not bitter, but I sure am looking forward to spending time on my new Giant Escape 1.

You see, I was of the opine that a mountain bike makes for a good commuter. Which it might, but here's what I've found over the past few years.

Mountain bikes are heavy. Well, they can be. But, anything remotely light will be too nice to commute on year round and would be pretty upsetting to give away to some undeserving criminal. So, you have the weight. Also, in that price range, you get HEAVY non-functioning and soon to be rusty suspension forks. And they get sloppy in a right hurry. Considering mine had steel handlebars and disc brakes, among other things, it was no light weight. And fat knobbies are fun to keep spinning up hill in a headwind. So, 1 point for the purpose-built commuter.

Mountain bikes can be cumbersome to outfit. Short chainstays are great in the woods. Not so great when you are trying to get racks and bags to not get smoked by your heels. And a lot don't even have eyelets anymore to screw racks and fenders into. I have a very "custom" setup on the Norco, which is partly why it is all going with the bike. Disc brakes compound the problem, specially when the rear caliper is mounted outside the rear triangle. Older v-brake/canti MTB's are not usually near as bad, but the newer stuff is a right pain. 1 more point for the commuter bike.

Mountain bikes can run out of wind downhill. 44t x 11t set ups on a 175mm crank can only do so much for you. My big 28/38/48 triple on the Giant gives me great range. And a chainring guard. Hello! Grand total of 3 points for the skinny tired wonder machine so far.

Mountain bikes can, however, take a beating. You've seen our roads. Sheesh. Also, I like to ride up, over and down stuff. Like rocks, curbs, stairs, drops, walls, etc. Mostly due to my riding style, (Or a lack thereof).  And I like to throw in some trails along some routes sometimes to, ahem, "shorten things up a bit". I need to rethink that a bit with the new bike, or really pussyfoot around when I do. Give a point to the MTB.

Now that the cross country capabililties have been mentioned, we also have to look at the all-weather capabilities of the machine. I thought discs would be the be-all end-all, but given the fact I used to commute on chromed steel wheel and steel side-pull caliper brakes, anything is a marked improvement. The discs can be just as noisy, almost as effected by the elements, and are a fair bit of extra weight and maintenence in comparison to the rim brake options. Specially with racks and bags in the way. Good bags can be removed easily to facilitate repairs, but mine didn't. It was not fun. And in reality, commuting doesn't pose the same situations as mountain biking, usually. A good v-brake or cantilever or even road caliper brake can be set up to work well. Specially with decent pads and cables. And it can be easier to set up proper full length fenders on a real commuting bike. This not only keeps you dry, but will vastly improve the lifespan and proper functioning of your bikes components, like the drivetrain and derailleurs, headset, etc.  Also, I was dramatically impressed by my seemingly unaggressive 700 x 32c tires in the snow in comparison to regular 26" MTB knobbies, and even purpose built winter MTB tires! If there's a bottom, they will find it, with amazing  ground pressure for traction. All my fears and worries are gone. Ice might be another story, but nothing grips ice other than steel, so I might mount up a dedicated set of studded tires on spare rims next winter for the few days it poses a threat. And, as an interesting side note, the skinny tires spray outward far less, keeping your feet free of the "waterfall effect". Up to 4 points now...

So, my personal opinion? A converted/scabbed together MTB commuter for running errands in the city might be fine, but for serious long-distance daily commuting, you can't beat the right bike. Not limited to, but usally equipped with 700c wheels. Lots of rack and fender options. Low weight. Simplicity. I love a rigid bike, and moreso on the road, it offers lower weight, almost zero maintenence and lively performance. Flat bars or riser bars are perfect. Ergo grips were a wecome surprise. Go with your favourite pedals still and a lightweight, narrow rack like the Axiom Streamliner DLX is a crazy good product. I am not nearly as worked out at either end of my ride now, which is good and bad, but moreover, I have an even bigger smile. I am impressed.

Keep these points in mind when thinking about your next purchase. If you can only have one bike, and want to trail ride, mabe a quick-release rack for seatposts and clip on fenders are the best you will get to allow a convertable MTB. But, if you want to do some light touring/day rides, have a longer commute, or don't want to get quite as worked up, go with a flat/riser bar 700c bike. With all the bells and whistles. Well, at least a bell.

This long time mountain biker is quite convinced.

Well, it looks at this point like I am going to be thinning the herd a bit. So, the Devinci and my old commuter will soon be up for sale. Which makes some much needed room, and also frees up some funds. So, what better way to waste my money than to spend it on a 20 something year old bike? Perfect. 

First splurge might be a nice Mavic wheelset I just discovered. Crossride UB. Just need a spacer to throw on my 7 speed cassette. Wait. Speaking of 7 speed, I might even forgo that altogether and get the bike geared up 2X10 with full SRAM X5 or X7 ten speed with an X9 on the back end. And maybe gear up some v-brakes for it. I looked at Avid Single Digit Ultimate brakes, all CNC'd with pivot bearings, but for waaaay less money and even less weight, there are better options out there for brakes. I also scoped out a nice non-suspension corrected carbon fork. Which will dictate going to a threadless headset. And then maybe a carbon stem and bar. Carbon seatpost, if I can find one in 26.6mm. SRAM 2 speed crank with 28/36 tooth rings. Ceramic BB. Ah, the temptations of working at a shop...

Maybe just the wheelset and a fresh BB for now. It's going to be a fun summer. We are looking at buying a house very soon, so just having less bikes to drag around will be nice. So, it looks like the Concorde will soon be my only mountain bike. Going to kick it old skool full time. Maybe just upgrade things as it's needed. Either way, keep an eye out for the green machine this summer. And by the looks of the BNS calendar so far, it is shaping up to be a fun summer. I'll be dummy riding the antique. 

Until next time,
Aaron "Era Technology Blender" Perrott

 

So, I was watching a few videos the other night, and it occurs to me. Single speed is crazy. Here's why.

First off, it's CHEAP! Or it CAN be cheap. Those high-zoot scoots with top-shelf parts don't count. However, those converted MTB-craze era bikes with v-brakes and leftover junk bin parts are cheap to build and cheap to keep running.

Secondly, SS rigs are FAST! Or, they have potential to make you fast, potentially. No slow spinning up hills. It's a wide open mash fest! However, you get to the top quicker, if you got it in you. And they make you rely more on momentum, conserving what you have. 

Third in, they can be LIGHT! Who needs all those extra dangly bits? Both derailleurs, extra chain, shifters, cable and housing, chain rings and cassette cogs add up to dead weight if you can get by without them.

So, maybe in the future a SS will beckon me. I've had a few in the past, including a sorely missed even though too large for me GT Ruckess SS XC bike in a sweet green colour on chromoly tubes... 

Anywho, if you do convert, there are a few ways to do it, which I will leave up to the interwebs to tell you all about it. I did however find a SS converted version of the Concorde Kudu Lite I own out there in the Tubes.

 www.nsmb.com/2987-readers-rides-2

So, maybe my bike is a SS in the waiting?

Till next time,
Aaron "Don't Touch That Shifter" Perrott 

So, the holidays are over for most of us. The tree is unelegantly propped up outside waiting for "the next" garbage day. Again. The turkey and treats are hiding around my waist, rather poorly, I might add. And my old bike is still pretty shiny living in the cat's room for the winter.

As I was riding home tonight, I thought of how I've been neglecting the budget I am trying to abide by, and how I can try to stay on top of things. And when you think about it, mountain bike racing falls under the same thing.

In my budget, I have a heading for "sports and entertainment". Which I have a grand total of zero budgeted for. Which is kind of silly, really. How am I expecting to pay for a few more goodies for the bike, BNS membership, race license, entry fees, gas and incidentals without putting it aside? Nothing worse than a big surprise once in a while, or hoping to have enough to play when the weekend comes. So, I will try to budget it out. Which is kind of tricky this early in the year. Not all the races have been posted for the year yet, but you can estimate on the safe side, for sure.

First off, the known costs.

BNS, (Bicycle Nova Scotia), Race Membership. This SHOULD be a known cost, but it's not posted on the site. And I am terrible at finding things online. Also doesn't help that I haven't raced in a few years... Either way, it is a fixed cost that can be added to the budget. This is what you will need to race a BNS series in the coming season, unless you go for a day membership, which is more expensive, per event, but is a good way to test the waters a few times and see if you like it. Personally, having done both, I feel it's better to simply join, reap the benefits of it for the year, and feel good knowing your money is going to a good cause. For more info, check out www.bicycle.ns.ca online.

Entry fees. These are what you pay to play. These are in place so organizers can get insurance, facilities, services and the whole host of other things needed to make an event go safely and smoothly. Don't gripe about the price, because last time I checked, no one was really making a profit on anything really. It's for the love of it most do it. So, to get a rough idea of these, we can see how many races were held in the last year that you'd like to do, and multiply it by the average cost of entering an event. In my case, it's the BNS XC point series, the Cyclesmith Short Track series, the Across the Highlands event, the Conquer the Pass event, Gorefest, and possibly the Roubaix this spring. Also build a bit of fat in here for those unknown events that might pop up, like AVMBA's Fall Fest, which was a hoot. It seems like the average entry fee is around the $25-30 dollar mark, depending on different memberships and who puts it on. And series like Cyclesmith's Short Track series are a one time fee for the entire series. That's a pretty smoking deal.

Gas. A lot of these events are all over hill and yon. So, I am going to alocate for a full tank of fuel per event. Too much? I'd rather play it safe, and in any event a car dragging a bike or bikes through the air is going to use a fair bit of gas. And if I don't spend it, it's more in the kitty for bike stuff!

Tune up/Maintenence. This costs me nothing, labour wise, but if you are not your own mechanic, take the cost of maybe two tuneups at your favourite shop and put this in as well.

And finally, the last known cost is things you know you need right now. You know, like, "Oh man, my tires suck. I need new *insert name of currently popular tire in all the SoCal based magazines here* tires!" Or a drive train that is ready to crap the bed. In my case, I'm looking at doing all the cables and some new pedals. 

So, add all these known costs up and scribble it down someplace, or if you are computer literate, us one'a them thingies. 

Now, the fun part. Unknown costs. Bust a chain? Shred some tires? Wreck a helmet? That can equal a bad day in the wallet department. Don't get caught off guard. Put a bit aside every month/payday for this. How much? Well, how much can you willingly afford to set aside for your hobby? $40 a month is still $480 dollars at the end of a year! That might be more or less than what you want to pay, but remember that it adds up, and if it's there if and when you need it, it can be the difference between hassle free riding, or eating Kraft Dinner for a week or two while you fret about how you will pay back your credit card. And that pristine ride you have now will eventually need tune ups and parts. Nothing lasts forever.

So, take your unknown costs, add those to your known costs, as best as you can estimate them, and see what you got. Probably a big number. But, you will end up paying this number regardless of whether or not you care to look at the end of the season. Possibly with interest. Yuck. However, take this total and divide it either by months or even paydays, and you will start to see how you can chew it up easier when bitten into smaller pieces. And this way, those slack winter months will be helping to keep the costs down during the busy race season, when you will not want to go looking for money. It's more fun to race your buddies than working overtime to try to race them.

Now you have a plan, a budget and a goal. Remember that it's not set in stone. If something isn't working, look at it again and see what you can come up with. After the first year, it will be easier to see trends and where you have been spending more or less than you have allowed in that area. Keep a journal or use an Excel sheet to track it. This way you will be worry free, and you can see just what this great sport will cost you.

Until next time,
Aaron "MacPennypincher" Perrott 

Well, after an awesome Christmas, I find my thoughts again beginning to wander back to whipping through singletrack with my haphazardly-attached number plate flapping in the breeze while I try to avoid being lapped too many times. And in my daydreams, I am scooting right along with my old Concorde, showing those fancy new rigs how it's done.

And along with the regular cross country season, with the BNS series and whatever else fills that up, and the endurance events, I am eagerly awaiting the short track cross country, (XCC), series, traditionally held at Seaview Lookoff Park. What a riot. Wide open for about thirty minutes in a short loop doing laps, with a mix of singletrack, gravel, grass and a short but steep climb or two, a little DH section, and a habitually slippery off-camber turn beneath a tree. Awesome times, close to home, on a weeknight, for little cost and a great group out there every week. And it caters to my style perfectly. I LOVE the holeshot, which is stupid and wasteful for regular XC, but can get you in a prime position in such a short event. It makes for some great passing opportunities with the adrenaline rushing, no chance for recovery, and after 30 minutes at this rate, I'm pretty much done anyways. And you don't need a fancy carbon XTR dually for this one. It's a run-whatch'ya-brung type event. Perfect. If you've ever even remotely though about trying mountain bike racing at some level, this is the perfect way to get started with very minimal outlay for a grande old tyme. Do come try it out next year. There are multiple classes to race in, so it is sure to suit everybody. You can do it!

So, with visions of wide-open-throttle racing at the park, weaving through some epic singletrack, and grueling along some test of suffering for multiple kilometers/hours in some endurance events, I am pretty stoked about racing my ole girl. Will it be a podium machine? Probably not. Will it put a smile on my face? Oh yeah! Now, just the waiting until next season to bring it all to fruition.

Wait a minute. Am I forgetting ice racing sometime, if we ever get a good freeze-up this year? No, I'm not forgetting. Just waiting...

And the bike is waiting as well, for a BB just to give me piece of mind, pedals, because they are toa-ST! I need to clean and rebuild my shifters, and some fresh cables would be nice. All in good time.

Which can be said about a lot of things in life. So with that wise advice, I bid you adieu, and hope to see you around here, and on the trail.

Until next time,
Aaron "Patience-Is-A-Virtue" Perrott

Well, with the season in that slow/messy stage, the old Concorde hasn't been out too much as of late. I've been putting the Devinci through it's paces to save the old girl for better days ahead. So this explains why there hasn't been much to write of, as of late. But, for what it's worth, here is the news...

I love the fact I still have the original Sugino crankset on the bike. Old 5 bolt jobby with no ramps or pins or any other lazy stuff. It's like shifting a dump truck. I love it. The bummer is the loose ball bottom bracket that tries so hard to keep it all spinning and unsloppy. Good luck with that. I scammed the cups from the wife's old Nishiki that I kept after going to a cartridge BB and put those in, along with some fresh guts, but it's still only so good. My spindle, 133mm square taper, is a liiiiittle rough in spots, but I've seen worse. Not that that really makes it good, though. I couldn't believe it was that wide, but it IS older, so whatever. A 133 mm asymmetrical  BB is usually replaced with a 130MM symmetrical one, but one side of the crank would move slightly inboard. Not a huge fan of that. Oh well, grease it up and look at the options in the future.

I really didn't like the thought of getting new cranks just to make the BB a standard size, but it was the best option, I assumed. So, after scoring a free Alivio crankset, (Hey, it IS a budget build, beggars can't be choosers!),  I came home to scope it all out.

The above mentioned cranks are 4 x 104, so nothing weird or hard to come by, but, yuch, black? Really??? I just finished polishing up my old cranks to a brilliant shine! And the q-factor is a bit more than what I have now. And they are 10mm longer. Longer, wider cranks might not enjoy the ground so much, specially if I goof in a turn and pedal through while leaned right over. So, I took a good look at my current set-up. 130mm is recommended, biggest common size nowadays is 127.5mm. How bad will my chainline be then? Well, as it turns out, my chainline is actually a bit more than 53mm! How is that?!? Why didn't I check that? I also have a good 15mm between the chainstays and the cranks at the tightest spot. Hmmmmm... Everything will tighten around 3 mm with a 127.5mm BB, giving me almost perfect chainline, and still tolerable crank to stay clearance. Noice. No wonder my chain is so far from the tire in the lowest gear combo!

All I can figure is that someone in a shop somewhere back in the day replaced it with whatever was around that fit the best. It was in Northern Alberta for most of it's riding life, so might make sense.

Now, only to figure out if it is JIS, or ISO square taper. Most are JIS,  but Sugino 75 is listed as ISO. Hmmmm... time to do some more research! Mine are Sugino VP. Only the internet and some really old bike dudes will tell!

That's all for now folks. Keep yer eyes peeled, and keep dreaming of marking tape, spectators, grimmacing climbs and getting on someone's wheel through some sweet singletrack!

Until next time,
Aaron "Cranky Butt" Perrott 

Seeing as how it's been a little while, I thought I'd give you the scoop.

I've put on the cassette, a Shimano CS-HG50 12-28t, and a Sram PC-850 chain. Funny how the best shifting bike I've ever owned is a 20-something year old 7 speed bike running Altus A20 components. Ah, they don't make them like they used to. Also, I've replaced the original, (sad), pedals temporarily with some resin body steel cage cheapo's I had lying around just to make it more enjoyable for the time being. I'd REALLY love to get a set of beartraps for it, though. My wife has the original Deore ones on her old Nishiki. So coveting them...

And now, the namesake news...See the title. I have replaced my worn out Ritchey rear tire with a Kenda "Smoke" type tire, one of two I had in brand new shape lying around. Do you remember the old Panaracer Smoke and Dart tires? Best ever back in the day. Well, it turns out Panaracer has re-released them in a more up-to-date carcass and compound that has been getting rave reviews. So, I almost bought a set. I used to love them back in the day. But, it is "on a budget", so I figured I'd go with my free, albeit heavier, alternative. Still a pretty smoking tire. Kenda also makes a Dart style front tire. So, free rubber for me, 15 bucks a pop if you want the Kenda versions, or 25-is a pop for the ultimate Panaracer classic tires.

And I have been riding it a lot, as of late. Thought I might miss the 11t cog on the back, but the 12t is doing just fine indeedy. Bike is well tuned, rides awesome. I rode some of the paths at the Dingle with it. Found some hidden single track. Worked awesome. Climbs like a goat. Descending is more demanding, but still fun. And it gets there from my house in no time flat on the road. Also rode the Links with it. Those trails are perfectly suited for it. Fast, flowy and a great workout. And finally, I rode it last Tuesday at 9 Mile River trails in the mud. Gack. My baby got filthy. But, it IS a mountain bike. And this is where the Kool-stop pads really shone. Hardly any grinding noise at all from the brakes, specially after they got wiped off by the leading edge of the pads. Very pleased. This will be a decent all-conditions racer, methinks.

So, it's coming along rather nicely at a grand total of $127 and change, and it's still sub-28 lbs. Not amazing, but still a lively old bike nontheless.

Until next time, or after the "smoke" clears,
Aaron "Smoke Screen" Perrott